Today I took my own board out for the first time. The last couple of weeks have been hectic for me on a personal level so I didn’t want to surf again until I felt like it was the ‘right time’ to go.
Arguably surfing is one of the best ways to de-stress and ‘leave the world behind’ but I want to surf for FUN and for the LOVE of doing it, not because I need to clear my head.
Today felt the goods to get back in the water. The sun was shining, North Bondi beckoned!
The water was clear and the waves were crisp, clean 2-4ft sets. It was busy but the crowds were manageable. The waves were breaking onto shore calmly – giving me time to think about where was best to position myself between each one.
I definitely felt rusty after a couple of weeks on dry land and had a few ”You can do this!” self-talk moments.
I got up once (pure joy!!!!), paddled, kept my balance and all-in-all came out feeling like ”my board is my board”. It felt good to feel connected with it straight away.
My friend Sar also went out and had a fab time – it was lovely to watch her going off into the ocean. I felt proud of my mate and my board ☺️
I left the water looking forward to tomorrow and all the other days of surfing that lay before me.
Me taking up surfing (age 33) is a perfect example of doing something different, doing something you’ve never done before and backing yourself all the way to have a go and get something challenging done.
You can teach an old dog new tricks!
I feel really passionately about following your dreams, your hopes and what makes you feel alive inside – surfing in Australia is so beyond my wildest dreams I still can’t believe I am doing it!
Cheers to trying new things! What is on your ‘must try!’ list? Get out and do it!
Thank you for reading 🏄♀️