This week I took it upon myself to decide I would “go surfing before work from now on” … on Tuesday I was due to have a PT session but last minute we moved it to Friday.
I was already awake at 530am and would hate to miss a morning for going back to sleep!
… So I ran down the beach in my bikini and grabbed the “borrow board” at North Bondi.
I didn’t worry too much about the cold (minus a wetsuit), the fact that my bikini could literally fly off as I got wiped out, or the fact that the board was at least a foot (I’ve since worked out it is in fact two feet) shorter than what I had been hiring …
In fact; I didn’t worry about anything. I just wanted to get in the water.
That was Tuesday and now it’s Thursday – I’m buzzing to share I’ve been out the last three mornings in the same fashion …
Run across the beach in my bikini, grab the red (6′) borrow board and get in the sea!!
I haven’t got up once. I’ve been wiped out countless times!
Every morning has been different and I have realised how much surfing is a “confidence thing”.
To go out on your own on a board 2′ too small, minus a wetsuit surely isn’t the ~best way~ to do it.
But honestly it reminds me of when I was growing up with horses – I didn’t care what horse/ pony/ furry fluff ball I rode – as long as I could ride, that’s all that mattered I loved it so much.
Getting a grip on surfing is going to be a long process, the ocean doesn’t know (or care!) if you are capable or not. It keeps on rolling, relentless.
You have to pluck up the courage to push through the breaks to get to the “sweet spot” where you are best placed to actually catch a wave as it bowls in full of gusto … or you wimp out and stay ankle deep, essentially “going nowhere”.
I didn’t say this at the time because it was raw and I was smarting from it but I only decided to start surfing because I was hurting when life “went wrong” with someone I was seeing.
Obviously I could have found surfing for a different (happier!) reason but honestly, as I feel right now; I’m grateful I got hurt as I may never have looked for a new challenge to focus my energy otherwise.
I am genuinely so excited to get to grips with this surreal sport. It’s bloody hard but I LOVE it. I’ve been going to bed by 930pm so I’m awake bright and early at 530pm to get out there!
If you surf you know what I’m saying – that feeling is so very hard to describe.
I’m at PT tomorrow so I won’t be out but come the weekend I’ll be out there getting it! 🤙
Thank you for reading. Have a great day